Itinerary · 5 days · 24 places
5 Days in Mexico City
Five days in Mexico City in clear stages: settling in in Roma, a whole day in the Centro Histórico between the Zócalo and the Templo Mayor, Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera in San Ángel and Coyoacán, a day trip to the pyramids of Teotihuacán and, to finish, the Anthropology Museum in Chapultepec Park before your flight home.
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Photo: Israel Torres · Pexels
The route on the map
The plan, day by day
Day 1Arrival in Roma Norte
Arrival in Mexico City
Hotel check-in
Base yourself in Roma Norte, the neighbourhood of Art Nouveau villas and jacaranda trees, with Condesa within walking distance and the Centro one metro ride away.
Plaza Río de Janeiro
A square with a fountain and a copy of Michelangelo's David, surrounded by brick villas from the Porfirio Díaz era — in the evening, neighbours sit on the benches with their dogs.
Day 2Centro Histórico — Aztecs, viceroys, murals
Zócalo
The second-largest square in the world, with a huge national flag in the middle; in the morning it is still empty enough to take in the cathedral, the National Palace and the tilting paving over the sinking ground at leisure.
Catedral Metropolitana
Latin America's largest cathedral stands on the rubble of the Aztec temple precinct and is visibly sinking askew; inside, a pendulum hanging from the ceiling shows the tilt.
Templo Mayor
The Aztecs' twin pyramid, discovered in 1978 during cable-laying work, now lies exposed next to the cathedral, and the museum displays the eight-tonne Coyolxauhqui stone.
Palacio Nacional
In the stairwell of the seat of government, Diego Rivera painted the entire history of Mexico across 275 square metres, from Quetzalcóatl to the class struggle — free admission, but only with ID.
Palacio de Bellas Artes
The marble building with its Art Nouveau façade and Art Deco interior has been sinking into the lakebed for a hundred years; murals by Rivera, Orozco and Siqueiros hang on the first and second floors.
Torre Latinoamericana
From the observation deck on the 44th floor of this earthquake-proof 1956 skyscraper you can see the city spreading to the edges of the valley — loveliest just before sunset.
Evening: Plaza Garibaldi
Dozens of mariachi bands in silver-buttoned suits wait on the square to be hired for around 200 pesos a song, surrounded by old cantinas and pulquerías.
Day 3Frida & Diego — San Ángel and Coyoacán
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Two cubic functionalist houses by Juan O'Gorman, one red, one blue, linked by a bridge — Rivera's studio still holds his brushes and papier-mâché Judas figures.
Plaza San Jacinto
Cobblestones, bougainvillea spilling over the walls and the 16th-century church of San Jacinto; on Saturdays the Bazar Sábado art market spreads out here.
Museo de El Carmen
The 1615 Carmelite monastery with tiled domes displays religious paintings and, in the crypt, twelve naturally mummified bodies from the 18th century.
Museo Frida Kahlo (Casa Azul)
Frida's cobalt-blue house, where she was born and died, with her studio by the window, the bed with a mirror in the canopy, her corsets and the garden full of cacti and pre-Columbian stone figures.
Jardín Centenario and Plaza Hidalgo
The two squares at the heart of Coyoacán, with the coyote fountain, street musicians, candyfloss sellers and the church of San Juan Bautista at the far end.
Mercado de Coyoacán
A market hall with flower stalls, mole pastes in twelve colours and the row of tostada stands where queues form at lunchtime.
Evening: Calle Higuera in Coyoacán
The short lane behind the Jardín Centenario with the Cantina La Coyoacana, where trio musicians play between the tables in the evening and mezcal comes in clay cups.
Day 4Teotihuacán — Sun, Moon and the Avenue of the Dead
Templo de Quetzalcóatl in the Ciudadela
Behind the later covering pyramid lies the façade with the projecting heads of the Feathered Serpent and the rain god Tláloc, some still with traces of paint.
Calzada de los Muertos
The city's two-kilometre, forty-metre-wide axis, lined with the platforms of residential palaces and aligned precisely with Cerro Gordo.
Pirámide del Sol
At 65 metres the third-largest pyramid in the world, built over a natural cave; climbing it is no longer allowed, so you walk around it and see the building phases on the southern flank.
Pirámide de la Luna
The northern end of the axis, smaller than the Pyramid of the Sun but on higher ground — from the plaza in front, the symmetry of the whole site falls into place.
Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl
The priests' residential palace, with a reconstructed courtyard, carved pillars full of bird-butterfly creatures and the shell motifs of the adjoining Palace of the Jaguars.
Museo de la Cultura Teotihuacana
The museum at the foot of the Pyramid of the Sun displays grave goods, obsidian blades and a model of the city that you walk over on a glass floor.
Evening: Parque México in Condesa
Condesa's oval Art Deco park with a pergola, fountains and a dog lawn; all around, the terraces on Avenida Michoacán stay open until late.
Day 5Anthropology, Chapultepec & departure
Museo Nacional de Antropología
Around the concrete umbrella of the courtyard lie the halls of the great civilisations: the Aztec Sun Stone, the Olmec heads and Pakal's tomb from Palenque.
Castillo de Chapultepec
The only castle in North America where real monarchs lived — Maximilian's carriages, Empress Charlotte's rooms and, from the roof terrace, the view down the Reforma.
Departure from Mexico City
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