Itinerary · 6 days · 30 places
6 Days in Buenos Aires
Six days in Buenos Aires: the historic centre around Plaza de Mayo and San Telmo, colourful La Boca and the docks of Puerto Madero, the tomb palaces of Recoleta, the parks and museums of Palermo — and every evening a milonga, a street of bars or a table at a parrilla.
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Photo: Nikolai Kolosov · Pexels
The route on the map
The plan, day by day
Day 1Arrival in Palermo
Arrival in Buenos Aires
Hotel check-in
Your base is in Palermo Soho, a neighbourhood of low-rise houses, jacaranda trees and designer shops, from where you can walk out to dinner in the evening.
Plaza Serrano
The round square, officially Plazoleta Cortázar, is ringed by bars with pavement tables and in the evening becomes a meeting point for street musicians and jewellery stalls.
Day 2City centre & San Telmo
Plaza de Mayo
The city's founding square with the Pirámide de Mayo, around which the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo still walk their circuit every Thursday.
Casa Rosada
The pink seat of government with the balcony from which Perón spoke; in the basement, the Museo Casa Rosada shows the foundations of the old customs wall.
Catedral Metropolitana
Behind the columned façade lies the mausoleum of General San Martín, guarded by grenadiers in blue uniforms.
Mercado de San Telmo
An 1897 market hall of cast iron and glass, where vegetable stalls, crates of antiques and empanada counters sit side by side.
Plaza Dorrego
A cobbled square with antique tables, where older couples dance tango between the café tables in the afternoon.
Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires
In an old tobacco factory on Avenida San Juan hangs Argentine modern art, from Berni to the concrete art of the fifties.
Evening: Café Tortoni
The 1858 coffee house on Avenida de Mayo with marble tables and a stained-glass ceiling; in the evening there's a tango show in the cellar.
Day 3La Boca & Puerto Madero
Caminito
The short lane of corrugated-iron houses painted in ships' colours, lined with studios and tango couples posing for photos.
Museo Benito Quinquela Martín
The harbour painter's former home displays his sooty port scenes, and from the roof terrace you look out over the Riachuelo and the old transporter bridge.
Estadio Alberto J. Armando
La Bombonera, Boca Juniors' stadium with its sheer wall of stands; the tour takes you through the dressing room, the tunnel and the club museum.
Puente de la Mujer
Calatrava's white swing bridge over Dock 3, whose pylon traces the silhouette of a tango couple.
Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur
On landfill of building rubble along the Río de la Plata, a landscape of reeds and pampas grass has grown up, with herons, cormorants and views back to the skyline.
Fragata Sarmiento
The Argentine Navy's 1897 training ship is now a museum moored in Dock 3, with its mess, bunks and trophies from its voyages around the world.
Evening: Dique 3 on the Costanera
The waterfront promenade between the converted brick warehouses, lit up in the evening and lively until late.
Day 4Recoleta & Retiro
Cementerio de la Recoleta
A network of lanes lined with marble mausoleums, where Eva Perón also lies in the Duarte family tomb.
Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar
The white 1732 colonial church next to the cemetery, with a Baroque altar of Peruvian silver.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
Argentina's main art museum, with Goya, Rodin and a strong room of 19th-century Argentine painting — free admission.
Floralis Genérica
The giant steel flower on Plaza de las Naciones Unidas, whose petals open in the morning and close in the evening.
Plaza San Martín
A hilly park with huge rubber trees, flanked by the Palacio Paz and the Palacio San Martín, with the memorial to those who fell in the Falklands War at its edge.
Torre Monumental
The 1916 clock tower opposite Retiro station, donated by the British community and built in English brick style.
Evening: Avenida Corrientes
The avenue of theatres and bookshops, where stages, stand-up pizzerias and bookstores stay open until after midnight.
Day 5Palermo, museums & milonga
Jardín Japonés
A landscaped Japanese garden with a koi pond, a red drum bridge and a teahouse, donated for the Crown Prince's state visit in 1967.
El Rosedal de Palermo
The rose garden in Parque Tres de Febrero, with a pergola, a boating lake and the Poets' Garden avenue of busts.
MALBA
The museum of Latin American art shows Frida Kahlo's 'Autorretrato con chango y loro' alongside Berni, Torres-García and Xul Solar.
Museo Evita
In a former women's shelter run by her foundation, dresses, election posters and film footage tell the short life of Eva Perón.
Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays
An 1898 botanical garden with a cast-iron palm house, a Roman garden and its famously friendly cats.
Evening: La Viruta Tango Club
The city's best-known milonga takes place in the basement of the Armenian cultural association, with a beginners' class before the open dancing.
Day 6Theatre, books & departure
Teatro Colón
The 1908 opera house with a seven-tier horseshoe auditorium; the tour shows the Golden Hall, the dome fresco and the stage machinery.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid
A 1919 theatre turned bookshop: you read in the boxes, and the café sits on the stage behind the red curtain.
Departure from Buenos Aires
Make it your trip
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